Sicily in Bloom
Beautiful almond trees adorn the Sicilian countryside and are the first to blossom in late February filling the air with an overwhelming scent and promise of Spring. The Valley of the Temples, just outside the southern town of Agrigento is the site of the annual Almond Blossom Festival celebrating Spring’s arrival and the miracle of life.
This week we taste our way through the rustic but ever beautiful (and flavorful!) Sicily all the while paying homage to the fruit of everlasting love and eternal hope - the almond.
Menu
FEATURED WINE: Fabrizio Vella, Bianco Organico 2020 "orange wine" unfiltered.
It is made from 100% Catarratto, Sicily's most planted grape. It has a complex nose of citrus fruit, lemon zest and citrus blossoms along with a hint of tropical fruits, herbs and sweet spices. Fresh, crisp and lovely minerality on the finish.
Chef's Travel Notes
Phyllis and Demophoon were madly in love, but Demo went off to war with promises to return as soon as he could. Phyllis waits and waits for over ten years and finally, in great despair, takes her own life. The goddess, Athena, has pity on her and turns her into an almond tree. But alas, Demo returns (it is a Greek tragedy after all) and when he learns what has happened, he takes the tree into his arms in a passionate embrace causing it to burst into fragrant white blossoms. Phyllis is brought back to life and almonds become the symbol of everlasting love and eternal hope.
Beautiful almond trees adorn the Sicilian countryside and are the first to blossom in late February filling the air with an overwhelming scent and promise of Spring. The Valley of the Temples, just outside the southern town of Agrigento is the site of the annual Almond Blossom Festival celebrating Spring’s arrival and the miracle of life.
First cultivated in the Middle East, the almond was probably introduced in Sicily before 1000 BC. Historians agree that almonds were one of the earliest cultivated foods. Not only is Sicily a major producer of almonds, but it is also the breadbasket for Italy and its neighbors. Spring comes early so the growing season is longer than on the mainland, producing an enormous variety of fruits and vegetables including eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, fennel, and citrus fruits. Its cuisine has incorporated many different international culinary influences over centuries, and it is interesting to note that the two sides of the island are quite distinct in terms of their food. The eastern, volcanic side has Greek influences, whereas the western areas have distinct Arabic influences.
Sicily is dominated by Europe's largest active volcano, Mt. Etna, which has erupted four times in the last six days, covering the neighboring zones with lava and hot ash. Though some would think it crazy to live next to an active volcano, its slopes are dotted with small villages and farms. The volcanic soil is very fertile and the harvests plentiful.
Sicily’s cuisine is identified by its “cucina povera”, a peasant style of cooking. It may be simple, but it is full of character, color, and flavor. Our first course, Panelle e Crocché di Cavolofiore are examples of Sicilian street food. Panelle are fritters made from chickpea flour, often eaten in a bread roll like a sandwich, dating back to the Arabic occupation. Over the centuries, the panella vendor is a mythical figure able to gather different people, from nobles to working class around his big cauldron of hot oil. We serve them together with another specialty, baked cauliflower fritters and a light salad of arugula and sundried tomatoes.
Most of the island’s pasta dishes are made from durum wheat and water with a strongly flavored sauce. Pasta con Broccolo e Mandorle is our homemade, short turbular pasta sauced with broccoli and almonds with a dusting of crunchy breadcrumbs.
Sicily’s landscape does not lend itself to much cattle breeding, so the average Sicilian family is more likely to live off the vegetables, fruit and wheat of the land and fish from the sea. Branzino al Forno con Peperoni e Patate is baked sea bass accompanied by braised peppers and potatoes prepared Syracuse style with almonds and mint.
Our Torta di Mandorla is a rustic almond tart prepared with sliced almonds and almond paste and – one of the region’s primary specialties. Almond paste is known a pasta reale (royal dough) because this finely ground paste of almonds and sugar was originally a delicacy served at noble Sicilian tables.
It is impossible to celebrate a special occasion in Italy without Confetti. Italian Jordan Almonds are Sicilian almonds covered in a hard colorful sugar shell - for each occasion, a different color - white for weddings and communions, blue and pink for christenings, red for graduations, and multicolor for birthdays. They are always given in uneven numbers, usually five, representing five wishes for happiness, health, wealth, fertility, and long life.
Walking down a country road this time of year in Italy is full of sensory surprises. Wild daffodils are sprouting together with crocus and brightly colored violets, but it is the beautifully sweet scent of almond trees in bloom that is the most unexcepted and unforgettable. Spring is awakening, bringing hopeful expectations and the promise of new beginnings.
Veloce, veloce, we have been waiting for you!
Benvenuta Primavera!
Christianne