Lombardia: Where it All Began
Over the past year, many have asked why did Italy, and particularly northern Italy become the epicenter of Coronavirus. There are several theories as to the when and why, but it seemed to have been the perfect storm of coinciding factors.
Despite all this, Italians have a truly unique take on life – maybe because they have suffered so many hardships through time, they have mastered a fundamental understanding of what really matters. It is because of the value Italians place on family and their traditions that it is easy to understand why the art of cooking and then congregating around the table has been fundamental to their survival in this unprecedented difficult time – especially in the hardest hit region of Lombardia. Their comfort food will most certainly be prepared with recipes past down from generations utilizing products that are grown and produced close to home.
This week’s menu showcases some of the most beloved ingredients and recipes from this complex and diverse region.
Menu
Chef's Travel Notes
Over the past year, many have asked why did Italy, and particularly northern Italy become the epicenter of Coronavirus. There are several theories as to the when and why, but it seemed to have been the perfect storm of coinciding factors. Tens of thousands of Chinese migrants worked in the Italian textile industry located around the fashion mecca of Milano. They worked in cramped conditions, facilitating the spread. Because of this influx, many direct flights between Wuhan, China and Italy were initiated, probably attracting many illegal migrants as well. In addition, in the early days, many infected (and undetected) people from northern Italy spent their weekends at European ski resorts where the cold helped the spread. That is why ski resorts became real nurseries of Corona. Then around the same time, there was an enormously popular soccer match between Spain and Italy where tens of thousands of fans intermingled, screaming, embracing, and kissing! Add to that, the fact that the area had an unusually high number of elderly people and there was much disinformation, indecisiveness, and bureaucratic delays that it was easy for the virus to spread very quickly.
But despite all this, Italians have a truly unique take on life – maybe because they have suffered so many hardships through time, they have mastered a fundamental understanding of what really matters. It is because of the value Italians place on family and their traditions that is easy to understand why the art of cooking and then congregating around the table has been fundamental to their survival in this unprecedented difficult time – especially in the hardest hit region of Lombardia. Their comfort food will most certainly be prepared with recipes past down from generations utilizing products that are grown and produced close to home.
Lombardia is the largest region in Italy, bordering with Switzerland. It is home to some of the richest cities in Italy, but also to great expanses of farmland known for producing prolific amounts of aged cheeses, expensive spices, fine wines and rice. It is not the place to go for fresh tomatoes, basil, olive oil and other Mediterranean ingredients, the food is more like it’s Austrian and Central European neighbors. Every city and part of the region offers its own specialties.
Radicchio, part of the chicory family, is much more common in Italy than the US. Here, we most easily find the plump, round Chioggio variety. Radicchio stimulates the appetite and acts as a tonic for the liver. By grilling it with the addition of a balsamic vinegar reduction, the combination of bitter and sweet mellows into a wonderful explosion of flavor. Arugula, known for its aphrodisiac, and cancer-fighting properties, adds a peppery bite to our salad. The crowning touch is a bit of Lombadia’s famous Taleggio, a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese with a fruity tang.
Risotto alla Milanese is probably the most famous dish from Milano. It is prepared with three of the region’s most important ingredients – rice, saffron and Grana Padano cheese. To the south of the city, huge areas are covered by rice paddies in the Po Valley. The plains have intensive cattle-raising, producing deliciously aged cheeses including Grana Padano, a parmesan-like cheese integral to a successful Risotto alla Milanese.
Stuffed turkey is another specialty usually reserved for festive occasions. Our rolled turkey breast is stuffed with minced veal, mushrooms, black truffles and finished with white wine. Note: Turkey is a good source of dopamine which eases stress – aka: comfort food.
One of the region’s beloved desserts is Miascia from the Lake Como area. Described as a “poor man’s” cake of historic origins, it has recently had a major comeback. The majority of these “poor desserts” were prepared with dried and/or fresh fruit to make up for the lack of sugar which was expensive and hard to come by. There isn’t a standard recipe – but rather various versions that utilize milk-soaked bread, cornbread, eggs, apples and pears. We serve it with a whipped cream topping made from yet another famous Lombard cheese – mascarpone.
This week’s wine, Calatroni Pinot Noir, Crested Porcupine dell’ Oltrepo Pavese D.O.C., from Lombardia is a great example of how the terroir of an area works to unite the flavors of its food and wines. We are told the interesting name comes from the fact that the vineyard is inhabited by many “carini animaletti dal muso tenero”, sweet little animals with cute faces.
In these particularly difficult times, we, like the Italians, will likely turn to food memories for comfort. Recent studies confirm that consuming foods that are associated with good thoughts and warm feelings not only improves a sense of well-being, they also decrease loneliness. When we eat comfort foods, we reconnect with meaningful association with others. Just thinking about a comfort food increased emotional well-being.
Let us take a moment to stop and savor dinner together, still separated for the moment, but together in spirit.
Christianne