Carnevale - When Anything Goes
“A Carnevale ogni scherzo vale!”
Have you ever wondered why we wear masks for Mardi Gras / Carnevale? Throughout history, this time of year was known as a time of abandon and excess. Disguised behind masks, one could banish imposed restraints and give in to the human foibles of sexual and gastronomic orgies. Traditionally, at this time, rules and customs went out the window, social divisions were eliminated, and it allowed people to poke fun at the aristocracy.
The word “Carnevale” comes from the Latin, “carrum levare” meaning “take away meat”. Throughout the centuries, it was shortened to “carne vale” / good-bye, meat! For Christians, it represented the last moments of indulgences, the last great party, before the strict restrictions of Lent. There are hundreds of diverse celebrations throughout Italy this week. It seems almost every region and city has its own traditions of merriment.
This is such a rich time of year in Italy with so many different festivals each with its own culinary specialties. This week we highlight just a few.
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Chef's Travel Notes
Have you ever wondered why we wear masks for Mardi Gras / Carnevale? Throughout history, this time of year was known as a time of abandon and excess. Disguised behind masks, one could banish imposed restraints and give in to the human foibles of sexual and gastronomic orgies. It was a time when women dressed as men and men as women, slaves were released, and lower classes could have fun protected by the anonymity masks provided. Traditionally, at this time, rules and customs went out the window, social divisions were eliminated, and it allowed people to poke fun at the aristocracy.
The word “Carnevale” comes from the Latin, “carrum levare” meaning “take away meat”. Throughout the centuries, it was shortened to “carne vale” / good-bye, meat! Italians started throwing wild parties to use up all the rich foods they had in their larders. It is a period of transition: for the ancient pagans, it celebrated the end of Winter and the beginning of Spring, the rebirth of nature. For the Christians, it represented the last moments of indulgences, the last great party, before the strict restrictions of Lent.
There are hundreds of diverse celebrations throughout Italy this week. It seems almost every region and city has its own traditions of merriment. Carnevale was first celebrated in Venice in 1094. During the Middle Ages it was known as party central in Europe showcasing actors, acrobats, jugglers, and musicians wearing masks and elaborate costumes. During the Renaissance, it was in the elegant palazzos, with lavish masquerade balls, that the long and fascinating tradition of masked parties in Venice began.
Viareggio, Tuscany’s famous seaside resort is home of Carnevale’s biggest and most well-known parade. It has elaborately decorated floats and people wearing paper maché masks that lampoon political and famous people. The Viareggini take it all very seriously as the parade and its festivities are deeply embedded into the culture and history of the city. It is said to have begun when some of its citizens decided to celebrate with a parade of carriages adorned with flowers. A group of young rich bourgeois used the occasion to protest against an increase in taxes, thus giving birth to the custom of political comment. The building of these huge, elaborate floats and the parade itself have become economically important to the area and so this year festivities have not been cancelled but rescheduled for September.
Without a doubt, one of the most colorful and outrageous celebrations can be found in the town, Ivrea in the region of Piemonte. ”La Battaglia delle Arance” / The Battle of the Oranges is the re-enactment of a historical event that took place during the time of tyrannical landlords when Medieval law gave them the right to spend the first night with any bride residing in their territory. Well, young virgin, Violetta would not concede and instead, cut off the head of her aggressor spurning a battle between the lord’s army and the villagers. The use of oranges instead of weapons have come to symbolize rebellion against injustice and freedom for the people. It is a free-for- all in the streets as different factions battle it out. Store windows are bordered up and large sheaths of cloth can be found hanging around buildings as impromptu safe harbors from the relentless orange bombardment. The only way to safely walk the streets is to wear a red hat, declaring its wearer a noncombatant. At the end of festivities, there are oranges everywhere, creating inches of slippery, juicy sludge. That is all that remains of over 400 tons of oranges transported from southern Italy by the train load.
This is such a rich time of year in Italy with so many different festivals each with its own culinary specialties. This week we highlight just a few. Insalata all’ Arancio is a colorful and flavorful way to begin. Though the oranges used to battle it out in Ivrea are not usually eaten, I thought it fun and a light way to initiate our hearty menu. We take a variety of bitter greens, so delicious this time of year and toss them with radishes, spring onions and a tangy orange vinaigrette.
Lasagne al Carnevale hails from Naples in Campania. It is the embodiment of excess – a wonderful dish comprised of layers of durum wheat pasta, rich tomato ragu seasoned with pork, ricotta, mozzarella, and meatballs. It is a festive version eaten during Carnevale when gluttony is encouraged!
Polpette di Carnevale, Neapolitan meatballs is substantially a traditional dish eaten throughout all of Italy as people tried to use up all their carnivorous supplies before the long meatless 40 days of Lent that follow. We use a combination of beef and pork, with the addition of pine nuts and another sweet secret ingredient that my grandmother would add. Can you figure out what it is?
Cenci Fiorentini, sweet fritter “rags” are the stars of the show where we lived in Tuscany. For the past several weeks, every massaia, housewife and baker have been frying them by the batch-full together with Schiacciata Fiorentina, orange cake and Fritelle di Riso / rice fritters. These are the consummate Mardi Gras treast in Italy. They are known all over the country by at least 40 different names – chiacchiere, bugie, struffole,and frappe to name a few.
After this long, cold, COVID winter, I am ready to let go, join my friends (customers) and safely party a little this Carnevale. We all long to be happy again. Thoughts turn to the coming Spring with memories of hope-filled days and rebirth. I am reminded of the D.H. Lawrence’s descriptions of Spring in his Flowery Tuscany …. “The sun always shines. It is our fault if we don’t think so.”
As they sing today in New Orleans…. “Laissez le bon temps rouler” – “Let the good times roll”… PLEASE!
Buon Carnevale,
Christianne