La Befana – Italy’s Own Christmas Story
The story of La Befana has been an Italian classic since the thirteenth century. It is a story of a lonely old woman and her endless search for the Christ Child. For Italians, La Festa della Epifania, The Epiphany, is as significant a holiday as Christmas Day, especially for Italian children. The legend continues that on the night of January 5th, Old Befana flies on her broomstick and goes down chimneys to deliver candy (dolcetti) or lumps of coal (carbone) to deserving children.
January 6th is a national holiday and marks the end of the traditional Christmas season. It commemorates the 12th Day of Christmas when the Three Wise Men arrived at the manger bearing gifts for Baby Jesus. The traditional foods of L’Epifania represent, in some instances, regional specialties, but are, by in large the same as the preceding Christmas holidays. Our menu is a whimsical culinary nod to Italy’s most beloved witch.
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Chef's Travel Notes
“In a small house, on the outskirts of a small village in Italy, lived Old Befana. She lived alone, and she wasn’t very friendly. If any people dared to knock at her door, she never asked them in. ‘I have no time for visiting’ Old Befana would say. The children didn’t like her either. ‘Cranky old lady’, they said. ‘And the way she is always sweeping.’” Tomie de Paola
The story of La Befana has been a beloved Italian classic since the thirteenth century. It is a story of a lonely old woman and her endless search for the Christ Child. For Italians, La Festa della Epifania, The Epiphany, is as significant a holiday as Christmas Day, especially for Italian children.
The story goes that La Befana lived on the road the Three Wise Men took on their journey to Bethlehem, guided by a bright star. They invited her to join them, but she refused because she was too busy sweeping her house. Later, she realizes her mistake, regrets her decision and sets off to find the Child. Sadly, she never finds Him, so instead, leaves treats for other children. The legend continues that on the night of January 5th, Old Befana flies on her broomstick and goes down chimneys to deliver candy (dolcetti) or lumps of coal (carbone) to deserving children.
January 6th, The Feast of the Epiphany, is a national holiday in Italy and marks the end of the traditional Christmas season. It commemorates the 12th Day of Christmas when the Three Wise Men arrived at the manger bearing gifts for Baby Jesus. Celebrations take various forms throughout Italy. In Urbania, La Befana’s hometown, thousands of people attend festivities to watch hundreds of Befanas fly down a zip line from the town’s main bell tower.
Other cities have different traditions. The highlight in Venice is La Regatta delle Befane, The Regatta of the Witches on the Grand Canal where retired gondoliers and rowing club members race dressed as Old Befanas. In Florence, it is a more refined affair filled with pageantry and history as the Three Wise Men dressed in Renaissance garb parade down the streets on adorned horseback.
Francesco tells me that growing up in Tuscany, where, until recently, there was no Santa Claus, they would await La Befana’s arrival with a mix of joy and anxiety. He and his brothers would hang hand-knit stockings at the large hearth in the trattoria’s kitchen in Cercina. They would write long letters asking for gifts, but often would find fruit and nuts with only a smattering of candy (which was too expensive). He fondly remembers that the whole town would go to church where the priest would hand out candy filled stockings to the children after which they returned home for the last celebratory meal of the season.
The traditional foods of L’Epifania represent, in some instances, regional specialties, but are, by in large the same as the preceding Christmas holidays. Our menu starts with a whimsical nod to La Befana’s treats. Caramelle al Prosciutto e Mozzarella are handmade pasta bundles resembling little wrapped candies stuffed with ricotta, prosciutto ham and mozzarella, lightly sauced with tomato.
Petto di Pollo Farcito con Salsa di Melograno is a pan seared chicken breast with white wine reduction, pomegranate salsa and sausage, mushroom & bread dressing.
Insalata di Rucola con Crostino di Trota Affumicato is a palate cleansing arugula salad with lemon, parmesan and smoked trout crostini.
Torta della Nonna or Grandmother’s Cake, in honor of the friendly Old Witch is a cookie crusted tart filled with pastry cream and sprinkled with toasted pine nuts.
The vineyards of Prunotto, owned by the Antinori family are located in Alba, in the heart of Le Langhe in the Piedmont region. Its Roero Arneis, 2019 is straw yellow in color with a nose that is intense with floral and fruity notes. The palate is notable for its good structure sustained by pleasant freshness and a lengthy finish that pairs well with our menu.
I’ve heard the story of La Befana many, many times over the years, but today I was struck by a theme that I had previously overlooked. The dutiful and hard working Befana was so focused on her perceived responsibility of sweeping the house that she regrettably overlooked the opportunity of a lifetime. She was so intent on the job at hand that she lost her perspective. Maybe another silver lining of this dark COVID cloud is being forced to slow down and reevaluate the journey. Maybe we’ve been given an opportunity to stop for a moment, lift up our heads and reset our priorities…. just in time for New Year’s resolutions.
Forza ed Avanti,
Christianne